Physical and Physiological Determinants of Rock Climbing

作者：Robert MacKenzie, Linda Monaghan, Robert A. Masson, Alice K. Werner, Tansinee S. Caprez, Lynsey Johnston, Ole Johan Kemi · 发表于：International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance · 年份：2019 · DOI：10.1123/ijspp.2018-0901 · 被引用次数：66 · 研究领域：Orthopedic Surgery and Rehabilitation、Foot and Ankle Surgery、Spinal Fractures and Fixation Techniques

PURPOSE: Rock climbing performance relies on many characteristics. Herein, the authors identified the physical and physiological determinants of peak performance in rock climbing across the range from lower grade to elite. METHODS: Forty four male and 33 female climbers with onsight maximal climbing grades 5a-8a and 5a-7b+, respectively, were tested for physical, physiological, and psychological characteristics (independent variables) that were correlated and modeled by multiple regression and principal component analysis to identify the determinants of rock climbing ability. RESULTS: In males, 23 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .773-.340), including shoulder endurance, hand and finger strength, shoulder power endurance, hip flexibility, lower-arm grip strength, shoulder power, upper-arm strength, core-body endurance, upper-body aerobic endurance, hamstrings and lower-back flexibility, aerobic endurance, and open-hand finger strength. In females, 10 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .742-.482): shoulder endurance and power, lower-arm grip strength, balance, aerobic endurance, and arm span. Principal component analysis and univariate multiple regression identified the main explanatory variables. In both sexes, shoulder power and endurance measured as maximum pull-ups, average arm crank power, and bent-arm hang, emerged as the main determinants (P < .01; adjuste...