Locating Value in Artisan Cheese: Reverse EngineeringTerroirfor New‐World Landscapes

作者：Heather Paxson · 发表于：American Anthropologist · 年份：2010 · DOI：10.1111/j.1548-1433.2010.01251.x · 被引用次数：194 · 研究领域：Culinary Culture and Tourism、Organic Food and Agriculture、Wine Industry and Tourism

ABSTRACT Terroir, the taste of place, is being adapted by artisan cheesemakers in the United States to reveal the range of values—agrarian, environmental, social, and gastronomic—that they believe constitute their cheese and distinguish artisan from commodity production. Some see themselves as reverse engineering terroir cheeses to create place though environmental stewardship and rural economic revitalization. But a tension is produced: while warranting projects of reterritorialization through defetishized food production, terroir marketing may risk turning the concept of “terroir” into a commodity fetish. U.S. terroir talk reveals attempts to reconcile the economic and sociomoral values that producers invest in artisan cheese.